The Bolaven Plateau is an elevated region in southern Laos that is known for its coffee farms, world-class waterfalls, and mountain views. The Bolaven Plateau Loop, a popular motorbike route which takes riders through this extraordinary landscape, can be done via motorbike in 3-5 days depending on your route.
Here in this cooler region, you can sample delicious Laotian coffee while on a plantation tour or at one of the many cafes, go bask in the numerous awe-inspiring waterfalls, and learn about the mostly rural, traditional lifestyle here. There are a few towns and homestays that offer food and accommodation for motorbikers and so, so many delightful sights along the way! The rest of this post covers the main highlights on the Bolaven Loop, including where to stay, what to see, and tips for navigating this incredible motorbike route.
Where Does the Bolaven Plateau Loop Begin?
Pakse, a small city in the southeastern end of Laos, is your home base for all things Bolaven Plateau. Here, there are accommodation options for the beginning and end of your Bolaven journey as well as several motorbike outfitters and everything else you need to prepare for your trip.
Pakse can be reached by bus from the south (via the 4000 Islands) or from the north (via Vientiane, Thakhek, or Savannaket) or from nearby destinations in Cambodia, Thailand, or Vietnam. Pakse is also home to an international airport which services flights from major cities in neighboring Southeast Asian countries.
In my opinion, there isn’t a whole lot to say about Pakse as a destination in itself. There are a few items of interest, such as the popular giant Buddha which sits atop an overlook of the city and the unimpressive though still historically important UNESCO site of Wat Phou, an ancient Khmer temple connected to the likes of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Just like any city in Southeast Asia, the markets here are fantastic for observing the hustle and bustle of local life. Aside from these though, I didn’t find Pakse to be an especially notable place for food, culture, or activities.
Tips for Renting a Motorbike in Pakse
Renting a Motorbike for the Bolaven Plateau Loop
In order to rent a motorbike, you’ll need passport, which you will leave with your rental company. This is for the company to ensure that you will be able to pay for any damages or loss to the bike before you receive back your passport at the end of your trip.
At the time of my visit in July 2024, daily bike rental fees ran around 100,000 kip per day (roughly $5 USD). This price may be higher during the busy season or may change with the fluctuation of the Kip value.
The best bikes to use for this trip are semiautomatic motorbikes. The most common choice is the Honda Wave 100cc, which is good for all rider levels including beginners. They’re very easy to use, even if you’ve never ridden one before. The gears change like a bicycle and work well for going up and down the hilly terrain that lies along the loop. Automatic bikes are available as well, but they are more expensive to rent and won’t provide great power when going up the steep roads.
No matter what bike or bike shop you choose, it’s very important to check over your bike and do a test drive to make sure everything is in working order. You don’t want to be riding off and later discover that your breaks don’t work! (Yes, I actually met a couple that this happened to in Laos.)
Where to Rent Your Motorbike
All I can say is: Miss Noy, Miss Noy, Miss Noy!!!
I cannot recommend this family-owned motorbike shop enough. Miss Noy is the Laotian wife of funny Frenchman Yves. Yves is the person you will most interact with when it comes to renting your bike and learning all about the Bolaven Plateau. He hosts a nightly meeting for all those looking to start the Bolaven Plateau Loop, complete with up-to-date road conditions, best recommendations, and safety on the loop.
There are numerous motorbike shops in Pakse that service riders for the Bolaven Loop. However! Not all of these shops are created equal! It’s honestly impossible to travel around Laos or Southeast Asia without hearing stories about people who rented bikes that weren’t in full working order. The motorbikes available for rent in Laos aren’t the best quality and unfortunately it’s relatively common to rent a bike that wasn’t serviced beforehand.
At Miss Noy, that is not the case. They have mechanics on hand who check the bikes before and after they are used. The owner, Yves, found something wrong with a bike he was going to rent me and immediately handed it back to his mechanics to fix.
I also really appreciated that Yves took the time to teach me how to ride a semiautomatic bike, as I had only ridden an automatic one before. He made sure that I was comfortable riding it before he rented it to me, and assured me that I could do an automatic bike no problem if I didn’t feel up to it.
With everything they provide – good service, safe bikes, and great recommendations for doing the loop, their rental price is also about the same as elsewhere in Pakse, so you will spend the same amount of money on a better product. They also have a laundry service and a restaurant, sell bus tickets, and store backpacks for Bolaven Plateau riders for added convenience.
Options for the Bolaven Plateau Loop
“Gh-r” = Guesthouse-restaurant/Homestay
Visit Pakse Info for a larger version of this map.
Short Loop or Big Loop?
People choose to do one of two routes on the Bolaven Plateau: the shorter 2- or 3-day loop which covers all the highlights through Tad Lo, Paksong and the 4 Sisters area, or the longer 5-day version which also loops around Sekong and Ban Houay Kong, taking you to even more amazing waterfalls.
I did the short loop over 3 days and absolutely loved it. Initially, I wanted to do the short loop because I didn’t feel super confident on a motorbike. I had gotten scraped up a couple other times while riding a bike with my partner in Thailand and northern Laos, so I was definitely a little timid and nervous to do it alone for that amount of time. However, by the end of it, I felt very comfortable on my bike and was a little sad that I didn’t opt for the extra challenge of the 5-day trip!
So which one should you choose?
Short loop:
The short loop covers all the major highlights and follows mostly paved roads (unless you venture down some of the side roads, which can be iffy in the rainy season or for anyone not comfortable driving on rougher roads). Some people opt to do the short loop in 2 days, but there is simply so much to see and do that I really recommend at least 3 days for the short loop. This will give you shorter drive days and more time to relax, enjoy the scenery, and take in the culture here.
Big loop:
The bigger 5-day loop is considered to be more challenging since it’s longer and some of the roads on the extended loop aren’t paved. This may not be a problem for most people – but it’s worth noting since more tourists get in accidents on motorbikes than the locals do just from sheer lack of experience on them! On the 5-day loop, riders also have to be wary about making sure they have a full tank since there is a longer stretch of road without access to fuel stations. On this longer loop, however, you will be rewarded with pristine waterfalls, fewer crowds, and a deeper adventure into the most remote section of the Bolaven Plateau.
Clockwise or Counterclockwise?
People can do this route in either direction. I enjoyed doing this route clockwise, leaving the best waterfalls for last at the end of the trip.
I did this loop in July, during the wet season in Laos. My bike rental company offered me good words of advice which I took to heart that worked well for me during this time of year: they said only to decide which direction to go once you leave Pakse and arrive at the fork where the loop begins. Here, you can decide to go left or right based on the weather at that moment.
If it’s rainy or looking dark and cloudy, go left because going right will mean you will see the best waterfalls in the 4 Sisters area in the worst weather. If you go left, you may get lucky at the end of the loop encountering those waterfalls with better weather. If it’s sunny, go right, because the 4 Sisters will be best experienced in sunny weather.
I followed this advice. Seeing a cloudy forecast ahead of me, I chose to go left. On my last day, while it rained heavily in the morning, I was able to start the last section of my trip in late morning after the rains had passed and I enjoyed beautiful sunny weather to see the 4 Sisters waterfalls in the afternoon before heading back to Pakse.
Where to Stop on the Bolaven Plateau Loop
Listed in clockwise order:
1. Mr. Vieng’s Coffee Plantation
One of the more popular spots on the loop, Mr. Vieng’s is a farm, coffee plantation, cafe, restaurant, and homestay. The main draw here is the coffee plantation tours he offers, during which he teaches about the coffee making process.
Pricing: 80,000 kip for a guided coffee tour. They also have a cafe and sell locally made crafts. There is a homestay option, though this would be best for those doing the loop counterclockwise rather than clockwise, since it’s only about 1-2 hours from Pakse.
2. Tad Lo Township
If doing the loop clockwise, Tad Lo is typically the most obvious place to stop on your first night. There is plenty to do here, including at least 3 gorgeous waterfalls in close distance to the town and there are also a ton of guesthouses and restaurants. For such a small town in the middle of nowhere, Tad Lo packs a lot of charm! I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and wish I had arrived earlier in the day or even stayed a second night!
Waterfalls to visit in Tad Lo:
All of the waterfalls in Tad Lo are free to visit, with the exception of Tad Soung which will require payment to park.
Tad Soung: This one is a bit of a drive away from the main town, but is the most impressive of all three in this area. I went to this one first before driving to my guesthouse for the evening. If there has been enough rain recently, you can see part of the falls on the drive up to the parking area. From the parking area, there is a short walk to the top of the falls, where you can swim in the pools, sunbathe on a rock, or just enjoy the view at the top of this 90-meter (295-foot) cliff. There used to be a trail that I believe goes all the way down to the bottom of the falls, but it is extremely overgrown and very steep, so I don’t recommend taking that trail at this time. (I tried and got bitten by angry ants and scraped up from prickly vines.)
- Parking tip: If there is no parking attendant, you can ask a local to watch your bike for a small fee. I did this and paid a local man 10,000 kip.
Tad Hang: These smaller falls are closest to the town. It is walkable from the town and is downstream from the Tad Lo falls, so you can see both in the same walk.
- Parking tip: There are no parking attendants near these waterfalls. Park and lock your bike safely away at your accommodation and walk to both the Tad Hang and Tad Lo waterfalls from there.
Tad Lo: These falls are wide and gushing, and reminded me a bit of a mini Niagara Falls. After passing Tad Hang, you can follow the riverside trail past the Tad Lo Lodge through the woods and come to a view point. You can also hike down onto a patch of land that sits directly in front of Tad Lo if you want to feel the power from the falls and get a little wet!
Where to stay in Tad Lo:
Fandee Island Resort – This super adorable property is located on an island in Tad Lo right on the river and has gorgeous views. They have both nicer bungalow options if you want to splash out a bit as well as budget tent options that go for about $7 USD. They also have a full-service restaurant as well as the popular Fandee Adventure Park which is a fun additional activity if you have the time and money to splurge.
Bolaven Garden – This is where I stayed. Just like Fandee, they have budget camping options ($7 USD) and nicer bungalows. The beautiful property on the river has a full-service resturant and is in a great location.
Palamei Guesthouse– Just down the road from Bolaven Garden, this location right in the heart of Tad Lo has a popular restaurant and budget accommodation ($6-7 USD). I didn’t see their guesthouses but I heard great things from other motorbikers about this spot.
- Booking tip: At this time not all of the properties in Tad Lo are on booking.com, for example Palamei listed above, so it’s worth taking a look around to see where you’d like to stay. Tad Lo is small, and so the properties are all within walking or quick biking distance from each other.
Places to eat in Tad Lo:
Here are the best places to eat in Tad Lo:
- Bolaven Garden – full service restaurant with a view of the river
- Palamei – full service restaurant with an option to participate in a family dinner
- Mama Pap’s – best budget option with big portions
- Fandee Island Resort – good option if you are staying here or doing the adventure park
3. Captain Hook Coffee Plantation & Homestay
About 45 minutes past Tad Lo, Captain Hook is a very popular stop on the Bolaven Plateau Loop and for good reason. He offers a home restaurant, a tour of the coffee plants and medicinal herbs grown in the community, education about their traditional, indigenous Katu way of life, and a homestay for those who really want to immerse themselves and learn about the local community.
I did the tour and also had lunch here. What I really loved about the tour was that we were shown around and taught about the local Katu community by a member of that community, Captain Hook. I think too often these kinds of tours are put on by outsiders and they tend to make the people of indigenous communities look like objects to take pictures of and stare at. Instead, Captain Hook’s tour offers us a look at their farming lifestyle, the medicinal plants they use for everything, their values and traditions, and the coffee making process. You get invited into his home and the community all while supporting his family and the surrounding village.
Pricing:
- Village Fee: 10,000 kip (upon arrival, which goes to the community)
- Village Tour: 70,000 kip
- Homestay: 200,000 kip (includes accommodation, dinner & breakfast)
- They also sell homemade food, coffee, and crafts
Tour times are at 9:30 and 1:30 every day. Captain Hook tends to talk a lot and loves taking questions, so you should be prepared to allocate about half a day to spend here.
4. Mountain Loop Scenic Detour
The next obvious place to visit on the Bolaven Plateau Loop, if doing clockwise, is the mountain loop scenic detour, which is easily the most beautiful along the whole plateau. There are no major stops here, but rather its appeal comes from the stunning mountain scenery along these steep, winding roads. This one-hour-long mini loop between Thateng & Sinouk Coffee takes you through one of the most remote parts of the Bolaven Plateau and rewards riders with sweeping views of the mountains. This is also a great area to take some photos!
- Tip: Follow the direction of the arrow on the map above for the safest ride and best views in front of you.
5. Paksong
Paksong is the most obvious place to spend your last night or your first night, depending on which direction you are going – which is true for both the big loop and the short loop. This is because it’s in an ideal location very close to the 4 Sisters, the last (or the first) 4 waterfalls on the loop. Staying this close will allow you optimal time to spend at the waterfalls (and you will want all day, trust me).
Aside from a few popular cafes, there isn’t a whole lot going on in Paksong. I don’t have any recommendations for good food and the accommodation is a bit lacking. I stayed at the Kai Lions International Hostel, which was fine for one night. There are a few homestays nearby (marked with a “gh-r” on the map above) that might be worth checking out, albeit most are down bumpy, unpaved roads that may not be great during the rainy season or for people that don’t feel confident driving on uneven dirt roads.
6. The 4 Sisters: The Crown Jewel of the Bolaven Plateau
If you do the loop clockwise like I did, you’ll have a cluster of 4 waterfalls (The 4 Sisters) at the very end of the loop before heading back to Pakse. In clockwise order, they are:
Tad Yuan: One of the most popular on the loop for good reason. There is a swimming and walking area at the top of the falls. If you venture down to the bottom, you will have an impressive view of these stunning falls and will probably get wet, as the falls are really powerful!! Admission: 30,000 kip; parking: 20,000 kip.
Tad Champee: This waterfall is lovely, surrounded by greenery in a little cove and the pool at the bottom is the best on the whole loop for swimming. When I went, the bridge to cross the river was broken, but I saw some local kids on the other side who were able to get across and go swimming. I just wasn’t in clothes I wanted to get wet so I didn’t cross the river. Admission & parking: 15,000 kip total.
Tad Fane: This was my absolute favorite of the 7 waterfalls I visited. It is by far the most impressive and the busiest, but it was worth it to hang out for a while and take in the jaw-dropping views of this place!! They have a zipline that travels over the gorge for anyone looking to splurge a little. Admission: 30,000 kip; parking: 10,000 kip.
Tad E Tu: This one is located down a long dirt road at an abandoned resort. When I went, it was empty except for the man who collected payment. Sometimes there isn’t an attendant, and so it’s better to park your bike at the beginning of this road at a place on the corner so that your bike isn’t left unattended. There is a sign indicating “bike parking” on the lefthand side when you pull onto the road. The walk down to the bottom takes about 10-15 minutes. The resort is cool too, though kind of sad since it’s so rundown. Entrance: 20,000 kip; parking at the top of the road: 10,000 kip.
Other Stops on the 3-day Loop
Tad Pasuam: This waterfall is abandoned and thus there is no one there to watch your bike. I didn’t go here because I was alone and didn’t want to risk my bike getting stolen. If you are in a group, perhaps you could take turns visiting the waterfall while someone stays with the bikes.
Tad Mouan, Tad Kameut & Tad Sua: These three waterfalls near Paksong I don’t know anything about and am not sure if there is an attendant at any of these to watch over bikes. I was alone and due to heavy morning rain on my last day, I didn’t have a ton of extra time, so I did not go visit these ones. However, use your best judgment and avoid leaving your bike unattended for any length of time.
Other side roads along the loop: I skipped most of the dirt side shoots along the Bolaven Plateau because I went during the rainy season and didn’t feel very confident driving through rough roads or slipping around in mud puddles. However, many of these off-shoots have their own additional cafes, guesthouses, or coffee farms to visit if you’d like to explore more.
Additional Stops on the 5-day Loop
The main draw for the big loop are four more epic waterfall sites (Tad Faek, Tad Se Noy, Tayicsua, & Tad Koo), even more gorgeous mountain views, and a longer adventure! This section is less traveled and pristine, with some rougher roads. The important thing to remember about this part of the loop is to keep your tank full because there are longer stretches without gas stations. The best places to stay overnight on the longer section of the Bolaven Loop would be in Sekong and near Tayicsua.
How to Pack for the Bolaven Plateau Loop
The motorbikes won’t have a ton of storage (there will be a small compartment underneath the seat that is big enough to fit a helmet or very small bag), so it’s important to pack light for this trip. I recommend also finding a bike shop (like Miss Noy’s) that has a front basket attachment for additional belongings so that you don’t have to wear your backpack for the entire ride every day, which can get cumbersome and uncomfortable after so many hours.
You should plan to store your luggage or big backpack either with your accommodation in Pakse while you are away or with your motorbike rental shop. A 15-20L backpack is a good size to bring along on the Bolaven Loop. I travel with a 20L waterproof backpack that is packable when not in use, so I opted to bring this with me since I was traveling during the rainy season and I found it to be the perfect size. I was also able to stow it in my front basket with bungee cords (borrowed from Miss Noy’s) to keep it secure while driving.
Below is what I brought with me on my trip for reference. A few items I could’ve done without, which I note, but otherwise I packed pretty perfectly for my three days on the Bolaven Plateau Loop.
My packing list:
- 20-liter waterproof backpack
- Enough cash to last my whole trip, plus extra
- Hat & sunglasses
- Clothing for warm weather -1 pair of bike shorts, 1 quick drying t-shirt, 1 modest tank top
- Clothing for cool weather – 1 pair of quick-drying athletic leggings, 1 pair of cozy leggings, 1 light fleece, 1 light long sleeve, 1 light puffy jacket, 1 beanie and 1 pair of gloves. I wore the pants and the fleece every day, and I also slept in my cozy leggings and long sleeve at night since the temperatures were cooler. I did not use the puffy, beanie, or gloves.
- A few pairs of socks & underwear; 1 sports bra & 1 lounge/cozy bralette
- Hiking boots for riding; Chacos for everything else
- Poncho & rain jacket for travel during the rainy season. Having a poncho was especially helpful to wear on my bike when it rained & provided more coverage than a rain coat. I did not use my rain jacket.
- Clothes to swim in – not a bathing suit. It is rude in Laos – especially this part of the country – to wear a bikini or be scantily clad in any way. I planned to swim in my quick-drying bike shorts and t-shirt, but I didn’t end up swimming on the loop.
- Packable, quick-drying towel
- Sunscreen, bugspray & toiletries
- My mirrorless digital camera with an extra lens, my phone & charger, headphones
- Notebook & pen
- Reusable water bottle
Feel free to use this as a guide for your own packing list.
Tips for a Safe and Fun Trip!
Bike safety: First and foremost! Rent from a reputable shop that checks and maintains their bikes. Make sure to do a test run and check that all your safety features (breaks, spedometer, etc.) are in working order before you begin your journey. If there is something wrong, bring your bike back to the shop and have them provide you with a new bike.
Prevent theft: Always, always, always lock your bike and pay for parking! Unless you are in your accommodation for the night (where your bike should be safely locked away inside), do not ever let your bike sit unattended, even if it seems like no one is around. ALWAYS pay an attendant to watch your bike if it is going to be out of your view. Bike theft is very common in Laos, and it’s even more prevalent along the Bolaven Plateau. You don’t want to get stranded or have to pay for a lost bike when you return to collect your passport in Pakse.
Driving: Wear a helmet and drive at a pace you are comfortable with. Be prepared with snacks, water, sunscreen, and comfortable clothes in case you get stuck somewhere unexpectedly.
Dress for the weather: Bring clothes suitable for the climate. The Bolaven Plateau is at a higher elevation and thus cooler than you might expect. Bring a good sweater and/or jacket and boots for riding, etc. During the rainy season having a poncho and a waterproof or covered backpack are lifesavers, too.
Swimming etiquette: At the swimming holes along the Bolaven Plateau, it is considered rude to be scantily clad in a bathing suit. If you want to swim, please be considerate of the locals and wear shorts and a t-shirt rather than a swimsuit.
Carry cash: Just like most everywhere else in Laos, it’s best to have cash in hand to pay for everything. Finding an ATM along the Bolaven Plateau is an impossible task, so it’s even more important that you bring enough cash for the whole trip.
Bookings: Unless you are traveling in peak season and want to stay somewhere specific, you don’t need to book your accommodation in advance. Many of the guesthouses aren’t available online, so consider pulling up to check out a few properties and decide once you arrive to your destination each evening.
Cell service: On many parts of the Bolaven Loop, cell service is extremely limited, so it’s essential to have an offline GPS map on your phone of the area! The best free app to use is Maps.me. After downloading maps.me on your phone, go to this link and scroll to the bottom of the page where there is a map labeled “Bolaven.” Follow the instructions to have this downloadable map on your maps.me app, which will allow you to view your location on the map and all of the attractions nearby at any time. Just make sure you download the region you’ll be in before you leave so that you can access the map offline.
Leave your trip open-ended: If you have the time to spare, allow yourself extra time in case you find more things you want to explore on the Bolaven Loop. Many motorbike shops (including Miss Noy’s) will have you pay for your bike rental upon your return for this exact reason.
Have an epic adventure on the Bolaven Plateau Loop!
Thanks so much for reading and I hope this post has been useful in planning an awesome motorbike trip in the Bolaven Plateau of southern Laos. Please let me know in the comments if you have further questions and to let me know how your trip went!
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